"The United States is a nation of laws: badly written and randomly enforced." - Frank Zappa
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Japan trip
Day 14 - 19th June - Tosho-gu, Futarasan Shrine; Nikko (Part 2)
Signage in Japanese sacred places in general isn't very good. Although this keeps them looking relatively pristine, it also confuses people like me who try to figure out what is where (though most tourists are just there to take pretty pictures anyway), but if you want to take the time you can reconstruct what is what by browsing a guidebook. I was relatively systematic, so this shouldn't be a problem.
Evidence of the presence of one of the Lost Tribes of Israel
Wall (Outer IIRC) of the inner-compound
Karamon
Archer gods
Wine is one thing, but whiskey in a Shinto shrine? They're really open. We must thank Meiji.
Prayer hall
Part of Yomeimon Gate (notice the Immortal on a fish)
They had a "Good Luck Chopstick Long Life". Err.
Of course, once again I was confronted with the fact that half of Japan was under renovation:
Frontage to inner shrine
Detail
The renovation started in "平成 19" and was expected to end in "平成 23". Which made me wonder: what if the Emperor dies in the meantime? This is one of the big disadvantages of dating by reigns, instead of using an absolute dating system.
There was another part of the shrine, entrance to which was not included in the combination ticket. Naturally, this part of the shrine was famous, as it had a carving of a sleeping cat.
I paid Y520 to see this.
Context
Past the sleeping cat, it was an uphill trek to see... the tomb of Tokugawa Ieyasu (the one in Koyasan was a spiritual tomb, this held his real remains - at least it wasn't as bad as the Habsburgs' *three* tombs!)
Entrance
Long walk up
Torii
I was about to mentally note that temples were the only places in Japan without vending machines, but:
You can have any drink you want - as long as it's Green Tea. Notice also the price premium (the people who refill this must be paid for the trek up, I assume. Either that or it's a premium brand).
Tomb entrance. The place was quite cramped, which accounts for the bad angle.
Sacred tree
Roofs of main shrine from above
Side of Yomeimon Gate
Yakushido. Blur thanks to the guard.
In the Yakushido, not only was photography not permitted, recording ("録音") was forbidden too. This was because of the acoustics of the hall: the guy demonstrated what happened when you whacked a wooden block - the echo lasted 6 seconds!
Away from the crowd, I found the most peaceful part of Tosho Gu: the area beside the toilet.
I then made my way to the Futarasan Shrine via a lantern-lined path, the atmosphere spoiled only by reminders of the renovations along the side.
Futarasan Shrine: Roh Mon Gate.
Followed by a torii. Gah.
Kerokerokeroppi/Keroppi shrine - is this a joke? Damn Japs. Maybe they paid for the last restoration.
Ema. I assume the hearts mean they're all dedicated to Love.
Keychain charms? How practical.
Tree pair
I then entered one of the shrine buildings.
Paintings of bird and deer
Inner shrine, Miko, couple and priest
I assume this festival cart isn't for burning and sending off to the Underworld
Prayer submission (?)
Jogyodo. For some reason I wrote "Hokkedo" on my scribble sheet but don't have a picture of it.
Proper entrance to Futarasan - I came in by the back door
Tuesday, December 16, 2008
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