Earlier this year, I was in Si Thep, Thailand, to view the World Heritage Site, The Ancient Town of Si Thep and its Associated Dvaravati Monuments.
There was very little information online, and still is (it only became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2023 after all), so I am writing up my experience.
I was unable to find any tours that visit this place - not even private ones. So I had to hire a driver and ask to visit this place, about 3.5-4 hours' drive from Bangkok.
There wasn't much information there, even in Thai. Technically you can call ahead for an English-speaking guide, but we didn't do that (I didn't know you could do that anyway).
The site is composed of 3 main components:
Si Thep. There is a shuttle that brings you around the site.
Khao Klang Nok. There was more information here than at the main site & it was also more compact.
Khao Thamorrat Cave. We didn't go here. Some hiking is apparently necessary and it's on a mountain.
We visited Si Thep first, then Khao Klang Nok. If you don't have a guide, it might be better to go to Khao Klang Nok first as you can get more information and context about the site first.
Given how good Microsoft Windows's OCR is, I will transcribe text in signs where possible.
First was Si Thep itself:
Si Thep information panel:
"Srithep ancient town
Srithep ancient town, approximately 240 kilometers north of Bangkok, is located in Sri Thep district,
Phetchaboon province. Sri Thep covers 4.7 square kilometers and is enclosed by two concentric moats. It was
characterized as a twin town; Muang Nai refer to theinner structure of the town and Muang NoK to the outer
structure of town.
Muang Nai is a circular in plan, covering 2.08 square kilometers. There are three large monuments - Prang
Sri Thep, Prang Song Phi Nong and Khao klang Nai. Apart from three, there are around 45 small ancient remains
scattered around the area and 70 ponds and swamps in the area as well. Having been conserved and developed,
the inner city is now open to visitors.
Muang Nok is located to the east of Muang Nai, Surrounded by a moat and earthen dykes except
for the side which in connected to Muang Nai. It had covered around 2.54 square kilometers. There are 54 small
ancient remains and a big pond in the northen site of the center area. Some of the area is still being used for
agriculture.
Outside Sri Thep ancient town, there are also 50 small ancient monuments. The most
important sites are Khao klang Nok and Prang Ruesi. Another important site is Khao Tamorrat cave. It is located
high up on hill, around 20 kilometers west from Sri Thep.
Archaeological evidence indicated that the earliest communities settled in Sri Thep ancient town in late
prehistoric or approximately 2,000 years ago. Later the local village societies gradually developed into urban societies
under the influence of Dvaravati culture (7th -11th century A.D.) and Ancient Khmer culture (11th -13th
century A.D.)."
Shuttle around site
Stones outside the museum. IIRC there wasn't anything interesting inside (which is why I didn't take photos) and anyway there was a big Thai group there.
"Prang Song Phi Nong is a Hindu monastery of Shaivism, situated in the center
of the Inner Town of the Ancient Town of Si Thep. It comprises of a large main
Prasat and a smaller Prasat which its name "Song Phi Nong" (means two siblings)
comes from these two Prasats. Prang Song Phi Nong stands facing the west where
is the location of Khao Thamorrat (Thamorrat Mountain).
The large main Prasat is seven meters height. Its base was built of laterite while
its body and roof structure are made of brick and this main Prasat is coated by
plaster. There is one entrance at the west. Inside the building served as the place
to enshrine a religious statue which had been lost.
The small Prasat is situated on the same base as the large Prasat. However,
these two Prasats were not constructed at the same time. The small Prasat was
erected on the large Prasat's boundary wall, accordingly, the small Prasat was later
built. A lintel portraying "Uma Maheshavara" of the Prasat's doorway is the Khmer
art style of the Baphuon - Angkor Wat period, dated in the 11th - 12th century AD."
On Si Thep: This is partly copied and pasted from the UNESCO page: The Ancient Town of Si Thep and its Associated Dvaravati Monuments - UNESCO World Heritage Centre. However it also describes the 3 properties:
The Ancient Town of Si Thep: The Ancient Town of Si Thep is one of the most important large ancient town in Dvaravati culture. The town had been inhabited since the late prehistoric period (Iron Age, around 1,700 years ago) and was abandoned in the 12th Century AD. The archaeological and artistic evidence demonstrated that this ancient town was derived external civilizations from India, Khmer culture and other Dvaravati towns. It flourished and had specific characteristic of the Ancient Town of Si Thep, especially in Dvaravati culture, which accepted simultaneous three religious cultures of Theravada Buddhism, Mahayana Buddhism and Hinduism. It had its own unique artistic style resulting from the combination of Indian, Khmer, Dvaravati and local craftsmanship.
Khao Klang Nok Ancient Monument: Khao Klang Nok Ancient Monument is located towards the north, outside the Ancient Town of Si Thep about 2 kilometers. It is one of the largest pagodas and most complete architecturla elements in Dvaravati culture, dated around 7th - 8th CenturyA D. Khao Klang Nok was influenced the thought of cosmological beliefs or the center of universe from Indian culture.
Khao Thamorrat Cave Ancient Monument: Located in Khok Sa-ard subdistrict municipality, approximate 15 kilometers towards west of the Ancient Town of Si Thep on the same axis as Khao Klnag Nok ancient monument and the Ancient Town of Si Thep. Khao Thamorrat Cave is the only cave monastery in Dvaravati period that demonstrates beliefs in Mahayana Buddhism.
More buildings
Bench with the site mascot
Mound
Carving detail. It was quite intricate
There was also a cafe. The Si Thep ice cream (with the mascot) was cute. Though I don't think it tasted great.
Then it was time to get back on the trolley.
Ponds
Leaflet on the buildings previously pictured:
5. Prang Si Thep. Prang Si Thep is a Hindu monastery influenced by Ancient Khmer Architecture around 6th - 10th Centuries AD. Prang Si Thep is aligned on the same axis as Prang Song Phi Nong facing the west. It is about 13 metres in height with a square layout. laterite platform and bricked body.
6. Khao Klang Nai. Khao Klang Nai's layout is rectangular in shape. It has a porch at the front and a staircase to the upper level. The key artwork of Khao Klang Nai is the unique carrying dwarf stuccos, which are different from those found at other Dvaravati sites. The carrying dwarfs display a diverse range of heads, from man to animals such as Singha (lion), elephant, monkey and buffalo.
7. Prang Song Phi Nong. Prang Song Phi Nong is a Hindu monastery influenced by ancient Khmer architecture, comprising a large main Prasat building and a smaller one. Although these two buildings shared the same laterite base, they were not constructed at the same time. The small Prasat building was created after the main building, on its original wall. The important artifact of Prang Song Phi Nong is the original lintel portraying "Uma Maheshavara" in the style of ancient Khmer Art of the Angkorian Period.
Leaflet on the next place:
1. Khao Klang Nok. Khao Klang Nok is located about 2 kilometres away northwards of Si Thep ancient town. With a square base of 64 by 64 metres, it is considered to be the largest stupa in the Dvaravati period. Each side of the main stupa is surrounded by three tiers of subordinating stupas. This layout demonstrates the influence of cosmological belief in the concept of the centre of the Universe.
It's even numbered 1), so maybe the tourism authorities recommend you visit it first too.
Then we went to Khao Klang Nok.
UNESCO World Heritage text (in Thai)
Site model (when it was whole)
Site map
"Khao Klang Nok is the Buddhist chedi (pagoda) considering as the most gigantic Dvaravati chedi in Thailand, with 64 x 64 meters
in size and approximately 20 meters in height. Its square base was built of laterite with two bases superimposing. There are four entrances
with stairways on each side of the base. Also, the base was decorated with replica Prasats (Prasat
is a building featuring an ornate roof structure) influenced by the Indian art. This series of bases
supports the upper-level structure which may have been the bell-shaped chedi surrounded by Lan
Prataksin (a pathway for walking clockwise around the chedi to do religious worships). Evidence
of the chedi's cloister is also revealed. In 2008 excavation, one Buddha statue in the teaching
posture was unearthed.
Apart from the main chedi at the center, there are smaller subordinating chedis placed in the four cardinal directions with three tiers of chedis in each direction. This layout is based on the cosmological belief that the Khao Klang Nok is the center regarding the Mahayana Buddhism.
According to the architectural style and artefacts, Khao Klang Nok was constructed in the 8th century AD. and was continued to serve as the Buddhist monastery until the 13th century AD.
Khao Klang Nok was announced the registration of the archacological sites in the Thai Government Gazette, 80th volume, 29th part, on 26th March 1963, embracing the areas of 0.0204 square kilometers."
Khao Klang Nok
"Archaeological Excavation at Khao Klang Nok
The fiscal year 2008, Si Thep Historical Park, the Fine Arts Department, conducted an archaeological excavation
at Khao Klang Nok archacological site located towards the north outside the Ancient Town of Si Thep.
It was a gigantic mound resembling a mountain, 120 x 150 x 30 meters in size, densely covered by trees and
weeds. A large number of brick and laterite fragments were scattered throughout the mound.
Excavation Techniques
Archacologists divided the entire mound into a grid system, with a size of 2 x 2 meters per grid. Additionally,
trenches (one meter in width) were applied to monitor the stratigraphy of the mound. A series of excavation
grids were excavated in vertical line pattern from the bottom to the top of the mound."
Stones
T-shirts with the mascot
For those who want more information (or to get an English guide):
"Khao Klang Nok Ancient Monument
Tram Tour Service and English Guide
Please make a reservation at least 1 day in advance
via sritheppark@finearts.go.th
Si Thep Historical Park
Si Thep sub-district, Si Thep district,
Petchabun province, 67170
Tel: 056 - 921322
E-mail: sritheppark@finearts.go.th"
Given how undeveloped the site is and how far it is from Bangkok, you're probably better off deprioritising this, especially if you haven't been to places like Ayutthaya yet (which is much nearer Bangkok too).
More information:
The Ancient Town of Si Thep and its Associated Dvaravati Monuments | World Heritage Travel
A Si Thep tour with Thailand Journeys - Rachel's Ruminations
