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Monday, October 14, 2019

Men vs Women's skincare products

"It may appear that male cosmeceuticals are the same as female cosmeceuticals, except for different packaging and fragrance. Products that are specifically designed for men must address more than just superficialities. Men have different skin care needs, as outlined in Table 1...

The male cosmeceutical market has never been as large as the female market, probably because men age more slowly than women. The facial hair is photoprotective and the thicker skin is less damaged by the deeply penetrating UV-A. Yet, women tend to have softer, smoother skin due the absence of less terminal hair and the presence of increased subcutaneous fat. Although this might be an appearance blessing, it is also an appearance curse because it allows women to experience more cellulite than men.

Male skin produces more sebaceous, eccrine, and apocrine secretions than female skin. The sebaceous glands are larger and more abundant on male skin, especially on the face because they are tied to terminal hairs instead of the vellus hairs characteristic of the female faces (Table 2). This means male facial cleansers must be more aggressive to remove sebum, which is why the male cleanser market is dominated by bar soap containing both soap and synthetic detergents, a formulation known as a combar...

Sebum removal is important on the male face and body to maintain the skin microbiome, which is rich in Propionibacterium acnes, accounting for face and back acne. The sebum also promotes the growth of Malassezia restricta and Malassezia globosa, fungal organisms responsible for seborrheic dermatitis. Thus, removing these organisms is important for the prevention of disease...

In addition to sebum issues, apocrine and eccrine sweat considerations are important. Men sweat more than women, making antiperspirants a common skin care product. The abundant sweat accompanied by a larger surface for bacterial growth due to body hair makes odor a larger issue for men than women. Male- directed antiperspirants are also fragranced for the male preference and are characterized by a larger application surface for the larger male axilla. Technically antiperspirants are not cosmeceuticals but rather OTC drugs because they are regulated through an FDA monograph. Increased male body odor, due to increased bacterial growth using sebum and sweat as a nutritional source, points to the need for the use of antibacterial cleansers. The most popular male antibacterial was triclosan, until 2016, when triclosan was removed from the market by the FDA. This led to the replacement of triclosan by benzalkonium chloride, which is the active ingredient in antibacterial liquid and bar cleansers. Especially in the armpit, male body odor is an issue. This use of antibacterial products to control this odor is a major cosmeceutical need; however, antibacterial products are also considered OTC drugs and are not technically cosmeceuticals.

Male skin functions differently from female skin in terms of not only cleansing to remove sebum and sweat but also skin moisturization needs. Transepidermal water loss, the amount of water leaving the skin and entering the environment, is lower in women than men, even though polls show that women believe that their skin is drier. Women also generally believe that their skin sags more than men, but skin elasticity is identical between the genders. The increased impression of sagging may be due to thinning collagen rather than decreased skin elasticity.

Female skin is more biologically responsive than male skin. This is manifested by the lower temperature at which heat induces vasodilatation. It also presents as an increase in irritant contact dermatitis and increased sympathetic tone. This may explain why women exhibit increased redness and irritation to skin care products, sometimes referred to as sensitive skin, compared with men, who do not gravitate to sensitive skin product formulations.

Male skin moisturizers are a much smaller market than female—oriented moisturizers due to the sebum production drive of male-dominant testosterone. Sebum provides skin moisturization, making the needs for facial and body creams for men somewhat different. Although men do develop dry skin at approximately age 60 years and older, dry skin is a much smaller male market. The male skin need for emolliency is greater due to smooth desquamating facial skin scale produced by shaving. Emollients fill the intercellular spaces where aggressive cleansing has removed the lipids to restore a smooth soft skin surface. The most popular emollient is dimethicone, which may be delivered to the skin surface in the form of a toner, aftershave lotion, skin bracer, or facial moisturizer. Toners are applied after cleansing, and aftershave lotions or skin bracers are applied after shaving. Toners can deliver a thin layer of dimethicone to decrease facial skin tightness. Aftershave lotions or skin bracers may contain a small amount of alcohol to decrease superficial bacterial infection and the papules/pustules associated with razor burn. In addition, the product can deliver some dimethicone emolliency to smooth skin scale and soothe irritated postshaving skin."

--- Cosmetic Dermatology for Men, An Issue of Dermatologic Clinics / Neil S. Sadick

Neil Sadick, M.D. | Manhattan's Premier Cosmetic Dermatologist

"Credentials: Known as one of the best dermatologists in the world, Dr. Sadick completed medical school at SUNY Upstate, and his residency in internal medicine at Cornell/North Shore University/Memorial Sloan Kettering Medical Center. Dr. Sadick trained in dermatology at New York Hospital. He holds five board certifications in internal medicine, dermatology, cosmetic surgery, hair restoration surgery, and is fellow of the American College of Phlebology. Dr. Sadick serves as Clinical Professor of Dermatology at Weill Cornell Medical College, and President Elect of the International Society for Dermatologic Surgeons.

Affiliation: Clinical Professor of Dermatology, Weill Cornell Medical College.
Adjunct Professor – University of Minnesota, Department of Dermatology
Serves of the Board of Directors for the American Academy of Dermatology
Past President of the International Society of Dermatologic Surgery, American
Academy of Cosmetic Surgery and the Cosmetic Surgery Foundation
Secretary/Treasurer of the Noah Worcester Dermatological Society
Past Board of Directors for the American Society of Dermatologic Surgery, and past Executive Board Member for the Women’s Dermatologic Society...

Neil Sadick, MD FAAD, FAACS, FACP, FACPh, is one of the most influential and renowned dermatologists and researchers in the world. Also known as the ‘’doctor’s doctor’’, Dr. Sadick travels globally training dermatologists, and plastic surgeons on the latest advances with injectables and energy devices."
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